San Francisco – city of views

A City Guide Through Lomo Eyes

I have mixed feelings about San Francisco because my December 2007 visit ended on a low – an extremely rainy day followed by a storm I narrowly escaped. Best memories include hearty breakfasts, conquering slopes and hills to be rewarded by beautiful views, visiting one of the most exciting shops I’ve seen for a while and a scenic drive down the California State Route 1. Worst memories? Perhaps only one – accidentally stumbling into no man’s land in the Mission. Maybe it wasn’t too bad after all.

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INNER RICHMOND

Happiness and discovery in The Ark

The Ark
3325 Sacramento St
(Walnut St – Presidio Ave)
CA 94118
A magical traditional toy shop with the best selection of wooden toys and animal figures. I was particularly taken by tins of wooden biscuits and pastries from German brand Haba.

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THE MARINA AND COW HOLLOW

Shelves of modern and traditional sweets

Sweet Dish
2144 Chestnut St
(Pierce St – Steiner St)
CA 94123
Sweet (and sour) confectioner in many manifestations including lego bricks (sugar), poker chips (chocolate) and chicken bones (peanut butter).

Peas and carrots for your daily Vit C intake

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FISHERMAN’S WHARF AND NORTH BEACH

A shelf of Jack Kerouac

City Lights Books
261 Columbus Ave
(Broadway St)
CA 94133
I tried to steer clear of bookshops in SF as it’s easy to go overboard but the Beat landmark City Lights is hard to pass by.

Waiting outside Mama’s door

Basket of breakfast bread at Mama’s

Mama’s
1701 Stockton St
(Filbert St)
CA 94133

Some think that the best breakfast is to be had at Mama’s. I much prefer Dottie’s but Mama’s location near Washington Square Park is considerably more attractive.

French toasts, juices and the paper

Nature watching

Pier 39
2 Beach St
CA 94133
Come here to see the sea lions!

Like a godsend

Speedy’s
301 Union Street
(Montgomery St)
CA 94133
Speedy’s Deli was a totally unexpected surprise and much welcomed too, since I made my way up there via the treacherous Greenwich Steps.

Vegetables in buckets and trays.

Assorted Italian pastries and cookies

Victoria Pastry Co.
1362 Stockton St
(Vallejo St)
CA 94133
I tried a few cookies from this traditional Italian bakery but my favourite and only recommendation is the cocoa-flavoured baci cookie (kiss!).

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NOB HILL AND RUSSIAN HILL

Shoes and more

American Rag
1305 Van Ness Ave
(Sutter St)
CA 94109
I like looking through the vintage rails here because I really can’t do thrift. The second-hand clothing at American Rag look like they have been cleaned and most are in decent condition.

Everything looks so good

Postcards from Bay Bread

La Boulangerie De Polk
2308 Polk St
(Green St)
CA 94109
Part of the French-style Bay Bread chain, there are many branches throughout San Francisco and this one at Polk is supposed to be famous for its open-faced sandwiches. Didn’t try that out but I’m still thinking about the orange bun and chocolate hazelnut croissant I had. Postcards with illustrations of their pastries and cakes are cute to collect too.

Colourful powder-puff like macaroons

Many things I like in this corner of Molte Cose

Molte Cose
2044 Polk Street
(Broadway St)
Vintage and new jewellery, ornaments and home furnishings.

An oasis at Spring

Spring
2162 Polk St
(Vallejo St)
CA 94109
Many things to start you off on building your own ecologically conscious home. Kitchen textiles and cast iron cookware were the highlights for me.

When the gate is closed at Polk-A-Dot

Polk-A-Dot Stationers & Variety Store
1742 Polk St
(Washington St – Clay St)
CA 94109
Many little cabinets to explore and discover with bits and bobs like chocolate paper clips, German toadstool decorations and vintage advertising postcards.

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PACIFIC HEIGHTS AND JAPANTOWN

Marc By Marc Jacobs
2512 Sacramento St
(Fillmore St)
CA 94115
Special in-store products are good for gifts.

A busy shop window

Nest
2300 Fillmore St
(Clay St)
CA 94115
A lazy person would call Nest’s selection of homeware and accessories exotic and eclectic.

Pieces of history in Harputs window

Harputs
1527 Fillmore St
(Geary St – O’Farrell St)
CA 94115

Inside the car sits Jeremy Scott Forum Mid, Footpatrol Superstar and other coveted Adidas

Many years ago, Harputs would be the place to go if you’re looking for deadstock Adidas sneakers. A Japanese writer likened it to a “gold rush”. Although times have changed with the explosion of sneaker collecting culture, Harputs is still worth a visit if you’re passionate about shoes. Apparently there is still an attic’s worth of old shoes to be sorted out so you never know what you may find here.

Upstairs in the stockroom

Next door at the more curated Harputs Market

Harputs Market
1525 Fillmore St
(Geary St – O’Farrell St)
CA 94115
Another venture from the Harputs team, this space used to be dedicated to Y-3 but has now become a select shop for men and women with brands such as Martin Margiela, Comme des Garcons, Junya Watanabe and United Bamboo.

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UNION SQUARE AND TENDERLOIN

Basement in Anthropologie

Anthropologie
870 Market St
(Eddy St)
CA 94102
Although I have never bought any clothing from this chain of stores, I like the eye they have for homewares. Their handcrafted displays make browsing there very pleasant too.

Up and down in Bloomingdale’s

Bloomingdale’s
845 Market Street
(4th St – 5th St)
CA 94103
Bright, clean and shiny – that’s how department stores should be. Best loos in downtown SF.

Snowglobes share space with typical table emblishments

Dottie’s True Blue Café
522 Jones St
(O’Farrell St)
CA 94102
After an hour’s wait in a not particularly nice area of town, we finally got our first taste of Dottie’s. Luckily it was really good. In fact, I think it’s the best breakfast I had in SF. The delicious-sounding chocolate chip french toast with balsamic strawberries were sold out by the time we got there, only 11:30 a.m.! I had a plate of Louisiana hotlink sausage, two eggs, house fries and grilled cornbread instead. All breads, cakes and pastries are made in-house.

Muffins and scones to take away

Custom luggage for your picks or you can make your own

Goyard
345 Powell St
(Post St – Geary St)
CA 94102
The only Goyard flagship outside of Paris at the time of our visit (December 2007) and one of the most attentive service I have encountered for a while.

Original Levi’s Store
300 Post St
(Stockton St)
CA 94108
How can you visit San Francisco and not see Levi’s?

Rare calmness at breakfast time at Sears

Sears Fine Food
439 Powell St
(Post St – Sutter St)
CA 94102
Come early. We were at Sears at around 7:30 a.m. and the tables filled up so quickly after that. Although the interior has been remodelled and Sears is now under a different management, it is still a nice SF icon. Silver dollar pancakes are the specialties here.

Simple but nice – French toast, waffle and hash brown

Taylor Street Coffee Shop
375 Taylor St
(O’Farrell St)
CA 94102
We couldn’t get into Dottie’s the first time we attempted so we went to Taylor Street instead. The menu is much more pared-down than Dottie’s, but the waffle and hash brown were satisfying.

Williams-Sonoma
340 Post St
(Stockton St)
CA 94108
I love Williams-Sonoma.

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FINANCIAL DISTRICT AND EMBARCADERO

Sunny day at Cable Car

Cable Car Clothiers
200 Bush St
(Sansome St)
CA 94104
Where men who still believe in looking smart go to be dressed. Classics from Baracuta, Borsalino, James Lock, Filson and more.

Food and more food in Ferry Building

Ferry Building Marketplace
1 Ferry Building
CA 94111
On Tuesdays and Saturdays, the Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market is on so the place will be bustling even if it’s raining. On other days, you can browse through shops and stalls. Highlights are Miette cakes, Acme bread, Boulette’s Larder and a very well art-directed mushroom shop called Far West Fungi.

Market days

Smiles despite the rain

At the flower stall

Polka-dotted bags at Miette

Far West Fungi

Love those mushroom signs

Pastries and jams at Boulette’s

Dim sum trolley carts flying by

Yank Sing
One Rincon Centre
121 Spear Street
(Mission St)
CA 94105
After reading all the incredible reviews, I had high expectations of Yank Sing’s dim sum but I was disappointed. My main complaint is with the pastry on the steamed items – just not delicate enough! But if you feel like you have to eat some Chinese food while in SF and can’t deal with grotty old Chinatown, then come here. My recommended dishes are Peking duck, egg tart and soya milk pudding.

Peking duck freshly sliced to order

San Francisco Railway Museum
77 Steuart Street
(Mission St – Market St)
CA 94105
Another good one for souvenirs.

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HAIGHT-ASHBURY AND COLE VALLEY

Fish burger and chilli curly fries for me, cheeseburger and straight fries for AB

Burger Meister
86 Carl St
(Cole St)
CA 94117
Quality beef not tainted by chemicals and filler, non-hydrogenated frying oil (no trans fats!) and environmentally conscious business practices…and on top of all these claims, the food is delicious! Service was very friendly too at this branch I visited but there are two other locations in San Francisco.

Things to go with your burger

Brushy hedgehogs, squirrels and raccoons in Doe

Doe
629A Haight St
(Pierce St – Steiner St)
CA 94117
Sweet and cute things to buy. It’s hard to walk out empty-handed.

Christmas window at Egg & The Urban Mercantile

Egg & The Urban Mercantile
85 Carl St
(Cole St)
CA 94117
SF’s select household goods and accessories store with products from local and small manufacturers.

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THE CASTRO

Decisions, decisions at Chow

Chow
215 Church St
(Market St)
CA 94114
I’m still thinking about the spaghetti and meatball (only one per serving but it’s huge!) I had here. Comfort food done well is something I’m happy to eat every day. The vegetarian burger and skinny fries are highly recommended too.

Diners at Chow

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HAYES VALLEY

Alabaster
597 Hayes St
(Laguna St)
CA 94102
Interesting selection of things for your home presented in a clean space. Highlights for me include Mondrian-inspired boxes and antique Chinese calligraphy brushes.

Socks on a branch in Cotton Sheep’s window

Cotton Sheep
573 Hayes St
(Laguna St – Octavia St)
CA 94102
Clothing from Japan for men, women and children in natural fabrics. I like the rustic styling and they have the cutest children’s monster socks.

Flight 001
525 Hayes St
(Laguna St – Octavia St)
CA 94102
All you need to go away with.

Shop dogs in M.A.C.

M.A.C. (Modern Appealing Clothing)
387 Grove St
(Gough St)
CA 94102
Possibly the best clothing store for men and women and the best shop dogs in SF with brands like A.F. Vandevorst, Dries Van Noten, Martin Margiela and other designers the fashion media like to call “intellectual”. Very big corner with selections from Engineered Garments.

A beautiful sweet shop

Miette Confiserie
449 Octavia Blvd
(Linden St)
CA 94102
Specialist candy stores seem to be the thing in San Francisco when I visited and Miette is the best of its league. The pretty styling of the shop is retro yet modern at the same time. There is an outlet in the Ferry Building focusing on cakes.

White tea, green tea and a plate of cookies to share.

Modern Tea
602 Hayes St
(Laguna St)
CA 94102
A clean, calm space with specialist teas from China, Japan and India. I like how attention is given to every aspect of the brewing process – flasks of water at specific temperatures for different teas and instructions on steeping times. The plate of cookies – caramel shortbread sandwich, coconut macaroon and double chocolate chip cookie – were delicate and delicious too.

Looking in through the window of Rose and Radish

Rose and Radish
460 Gough St
(Ivy St – Grove St)
CA 94102
Simultaneously a florist and a gallery, Rose and Radish is a mix that is rather particular to San Francisco.

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THE MISSION

Warm atmosphere in Abandoned Planet

Abandoned Planet Bookstore
518 Valencia St
(16th St)
CA 94110
A comforting second-hand bookstore in a space that mixes books, vintage homeware and collectibles.

Just some of the little treasures in The Apartment

The Apartment
3469 18th St
(Valencia St – Lexington St)
CA 94110
Found some mint condition National Geographic magazines from the ’50s and ’60s in this vintage and second-hand homeware store for almost nothing. Many good things I wouldn’t mind bringing home, if I live in SF.

Fake flowers used effectively on a deer

Man on a donkey

Storefront for the publisher Little Otsu

Little Otsu
849 Valencia St
(19th St)
CA 94110
Publisher of gentle books for gentle people.

Note taxidermy lion above the ground floor

Paxton Gate
824 Valencia St
(19th St)
CA 94110
Without a doubt my favourite shop in SF. Sweet taxidermy squirrels, animal glass eyes, tea leaves, wooden stamps, handmade jewellery and books are some of the things you can buy in this gardening-homeware store inspired by natural sciences and Victorian aesthetics.

Happy people at Tartine

Tartine Bakery
600 Guerrero St
(18th St)
CA 94110
I didn’t brave the queue but came back later another evening for a scone and bag of cookies to go. Eating them in the hotel room later reminded me of the wonderful smells in the bakery.

A vintage typewriter used by the army

The Touch
956 Valencia St
(Liberty St)
San Francisco, CA 94110
Some mid-century style furniture in this vintage furnishings store.

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SOMA

Chronicle Books
Sony Metreon Gateway
101 Fourth Street
(Mission St)
CA 94103
Chronicle Books also has a branch on Union Street but I preferred the openness of this one in a mall. Publisher of books that will not see the light of day anywhere else.

Get Lost
1825 Market St
(Pearl St)
CA 94103
Store with travel and culture books.

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San Francisco Sights
Up and down San Francisco…

Pacific Heights

!?!?!?

Somewhere in The Presidio

View after making my way up Greenwich Steps

On top of things

Telegraph Hill apartment

That’s just me making things topsy-turvy

A bakery in Chinatown

A restaurant in Chinatown

Little Paris coffee shop in Chinatown

Abandoned railway

Looking across to Alcatraz

Weather was perfect during our visit most of the time

Bird in flight near one of the piers

Patterns

Bird near Ferry Building on a rainy day

Pigeons on cables

Pigeons on benches

2550 Lyon St

Pumpkins and steps

A path

Modern building

Somewhere near Huf

Foggy day

Civic Centre area

Looking down for street names instead of up

Nutcrackers

Bunches of heather at the farmers’ market

Blobby tree

Plant encountered on the way up Greenwich Steps

Another plant encountered on the way up Greenwich Steps

Donuts and the like in a bakery window

Menu board in The Crepe House

Things to blend into frozen yogurt

Teapots

Teacups in a junk shop on Fillmore St

Tommy’s!

On Market St

Old-style diner

A weathered chair on Hayes Street

Pizza and bagel at Katz

Bridge in SF MOMA

What are all the children looking at?

Enjoyed Joseph Cornell’s cabinets of curiosities

Water curtain

It’s still Christmas at Trieste

Bagel selections at Noah

Urban toadstools

Well-trimmed hedge

Presidio

Tree, blossoms and sky

Tree, scaffolding and sky

Goodbye San Francisco

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Road trip
Out of San Francisco for a day…

…on the California State Route 1

Making a pitstop…

…to admire the scenery…

…the slopes…

…the coast…

…the sea…

…the sky…

…and the beautiful light

Somewhere in Santa Cruz while driving back

Stopping by a field of pumpkins…

…at Fambrini’s Produce

Upside-down strawberry sign

Heading back

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