Welcome to Madeira

A City Guide Through Lomo Eyes

Numbers can be so deceiving. I ambitiously thought that we could cover the 741 km² Madeira, or at least the parts I was interested in, under two days. That plan was quickly aborted when we got a taste of the driving. Madeirense, of course, are experts on the curvy and steep roads overlooking treacherous cliffs. We were constantly amazed by the generous speed limits. We still managed to see a fair bit though during this short trip with the capital city, Funchal, as our base. The rest, I guess, will be for next time.

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By the seafront

Funchal

Follow this sign to Bio-Logos

Bio-Logos
Rua Nova de Sao Pedro 34
Visiting the local whole foods store has become a travel ritual for me. There are a couple in Funchal but Bio-Logos was closest to my hotel. I had a chat with the friendly owners who recommended some local honey for me to take away. The organic food industry in Portugal is still relatively small for now so most products are imported from Germany.

A basket of fennel candy showed off by a Funchalese uncle

Fabrica Sto. Antonio
Travessa Do Forno 27/29
My favourite shop in Madeira – I made that decision in a split-second even before I entered the place. Fabrica Sto. Antonio is a traditional bakery where you can find cakes, biscuits, candy, jam, honey and ice-cream. I brought home the beautifully-packaged island special, bolo de mel, but the simple Maria biscuits were very delicious too.

Farmers’ market in a modern building

Mercado dos Lavradores
Rua Dr. Fernão de Ornelas
I almost skipped this farmers’ market but I’m so glad I didn’t. We had a really enjoyable time poking around the stalls selling fish, vegetables, fruits and other tourist typicalities like wicker baskets and booties.

The fish floor

Cleaning out black scabbard fish

From small to gigantic

Cherries in season

Colours of nature

A pyramid of tomatoes

Embroidery specialist

Patricio & Gouveia
Rua do Visconde Anadia 34
Delicate, lace-like embroidery applied to table linen and clothing at this historical firm are guaranteed to be made on the island.

One of the favourites in Old Town’s restaurant zone

Restaurante O Jango
Rua de Santa Maria 166
I heard many good reviews of O Jango as a fish restaurant and I’m glad it didn’t disappoint. My order of espada (black scabbard fish) with banana was done very competently and they served the most delicious bolo do caco (garlic butter flat bread) I had on this trip.

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East

Buses are the main form of public transport in Madeira

CAMACHA

Show-and-tell in the basket factory

O Relógio
The village of Camacha is known for its wicker weavers and you can’t miss this spot right in the middle of town. All kinds of wicker goods can be found here, in addition to Madeira branded linen, thick woolly socks and carved wood utensils. In the basement of the shop, you can watch some weavers at work.

My kind of heaven

Market stalls in Santo da Serra

SANTO DA SERRA

The homely atmosphere of A Nossa Aldeia

Restaurante A Nossa Aldeia
Sitio dos Casais Proximos
My guidebook described A Nossa Aldeia as a place “with locals for customers” but when I popped by for a mid-day meal straight from the airport, I saw quite a few tourists as well. I guess they’ve been looking at the same book! The food here is very basic, very homely…which might be the right kind of thing after arriving in a foreign place, or not. I rather liked the sweetness of the place: crotchet lace-edged tablecloths and floral-tiled walls.

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West

Bird’s eye view

CALHETA

Blending modern architecture with the natural landscape

Centro das Artes da Calheta
Vale dos Amores
Located on a craggy cliff-top, this modern gallery looks strangely at home with Madeira’s landscape.

Shop in an old sugar cane rum distillery

Engenhos da Calheta
Vila da Calheta
I didn’t find the machinery in the distillery especially interesting but in the shop, you can purchase what some deem to be the best bolo de mel on the island. Or if you like, you can bring home the mel (sugar cane molasses) to make your own.

Wi-fi zone in a pizza restaurant

ESTREITO DO CAMARA DE LOBOS

Look for this sign

Restaurante Santo Antonio
Estrada de João Gonçalves Zarco 656
When I heard the description “mountainside village”, it immediately conjured up images of something small and rustic. The dirt roads and difficult drive up to Estreito do Camara de Lobos only reinforced this so you can imagine the surprise when I saw a thoroughly modern and fairly busy settlement. I later learned that I was on the “wrong” route as there is a much quicker and easier new road to use. It was worth it though, I sampled juicy and flavourful beef cooked on skewers accompanied by fried maize cubes and other sides.

Peaceful at lunch-time

Espeteta

A small banana plantation

JARDIM DO MAR

Tranquility, except for my screams when I see a lizard

Restaurante Tar Mar
Sítio da Piedade
The seaside village of Jardim do Mar is very pretty and sunny and we had some home-made ice-cream at Tar Mar. All flavours are made from tropical fruits such as banana, avocado and lime. The texture of the ice-cream is more icy than creamy which made it suitably refreshing for the climate.

A much welcomed break

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Madeira Sights

Cliff and sea

Festivities in Funchal

Biscuits at A Lua

Photography museum

Carpets hung out to dry

Vegetable and fruit boxes in a local shop

I like visiting supermarkets in different countries

Tiled bench by the promenade

A restaurant in the Old Town

Embroidery-inspired

Shoe factory I didn’t get to visit

Wear and tear

A cleaner’s equipment

Hat shop

Flowers<

Bus stop

Old door

Wooden telephone box

Young and mature

Plants

An abandoned house in Jardim do Mar

Man-made beach #1

Man-made beach #2

Calheta customers

View while driving #1

View while driving #2

Heading for the airport

Airport

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